November 15, 2013
Tamboti Camp
1248.
Sitting at a little table overlooking the Timbavati River at
the Tamboti Tent Camp. The tents are
great green canvas things, built on a more or less permanent wooden platform,
complete with a nice porch overlooking the river. I was here for 6 days last year, as it turns
out in the same tent. It’s quiet and very rustic. You feel like you’re deep in the bush
here. Can’t hear any cars and you have
baboons sitting right behind the tent, waiting for you to leave so that they
can test your defenses. We learned our
lesson last year and have carefully secured everything in either the metal cage
bolted to the floor of the porch, or in our car. A camp squirrel has already taken a stab at
the cage, reaching in to try and grab whatever food he can reach. We had to reposition everything, trying to
account for the length of a squirrel’s arm or a baboon’s fingers. At Orpen, the vervets were able to destroy
some apples by reaching in just enough to dig their nails into the fruit and
gouge out chunks. We think we have
everything covered but Gina’s a little freaked out by my reassurances that
baboons will in fact be in our tent, checking every little nook and cranny, as
soon as they see us leave.
Didn’t write at all yesterday. Took a very long drive in the morning. The overcast of the first two days burned
off, to be replaced by stinking hot. We
hit 105F yesterday. Just for my American
friends – what I’ve learned is that 25C is lovely. 40C is not so much. We did revert to A/C in the car yesterday
afternoon. I hate to do it but the
reality is that no animals are moving at all so you might as well roll the
windows up and just drive. We got back
about 1445 and then went out on a ‘sunset’ game drive. It was a small group and the drive was
basically uneventful EXCEPT that midway through the drive we saw a black
rhino. It’s a big deal – I’ve never seen
a black rhino and there are few left in the park and I think it’s rare to see
one this far north (though the ranger didn’t seem to agree). Couldn’t stay awake at the end of the drive. We were both really just exhausted.
Up early this morning for a short drive. Was able to spot a chameleon on the side of
the road – a minor miracle actually.
Stayed and photographed it for some time. I don’t know what species of chameleon. Homework for later. Encountered elephants and buffalo. Very clear, beautiful morning. Then back,
pack up, check out and move over to Tamboti – very short distance. Rest, recharge batteries. Going to be stinking hot again today, but at
least it’s breezy.
Head back out in a couple of hours. Love it here.



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